Pierre Peters 1/29/14
A couple blocks from Salon is Pierre Peters, helmed by the feisty Roldophe Peters, who is quite a troublemaker, and I'm guessing probably a compete shit-disturber if you really got him going. This was my third and final visit for the day, and was equally compelling as the previous two visits, but for different reasons.
When I arrived, Roldophe informed me it's a very busy time of year and this would have to be a short appointment. 2 hours later I left. Funny what happens when you put two troublemakers in the same room and add champagne. We ran through the hyper clean winery with a gleaming set of presses. Peters' operation was larger than I expected, and was impressive with enamel, stainless, concrete and wood including Stockinger from Austria which apparently is the best for Champagne.
Due to the rushed visit, we didn't taste any vin clair, but Roldophe pulled out some rad wines to taste, and mostly things I can't get or get small allocations of, see troublemaker. First up was the Extra brut, 2010 base. He makes extra brut in cold years and l'esprit in warmer ones. Delicious! Terry theise please bring this wine to the US.
As we were tasting he gave me his thoughts on the only crus that matter in the cotes de blanc - Mesnil, avize, cramant, and oger. Probably because these are the ones he uses. Regardless, it was fascinating and useful to hear his descriptions: Mesnil - grey, winter, coastal, minerality, seaside Oger - white, spring no citrus, white fruit, floral, sweeter tones Avize - orange, summer, lots of body, ripe citrus, developed. Cramant - brown, fall, sweet spices - cinnamon, saffron, vanilla when young, roasted nuts
2008 reserve Oubilėe - created as a challenge to prove that you can have bold, nutty, slightly oxidative tones without using oak. Incredible wine, and it tastes like it's been in oak. The 07 was great too! Side by side of 06 and 08 l'Esprit these two wines were the first time I've tasted saffron in Champagne, fascinating. Also Roldophe feels that l'Esprit goes one of two ways, chocolate or coffee, the 06 was chocolate and the 08 was coffee. It was quite clear the difference. Next up was a side by side of Chetillons from 06 and 07. Roldophe, myself and many other top sommeliers agree that these wines are drunk far too young, hence my killing babies tweet. To help combat this he's starting an oenethque line next year starting with the 2000, can't wait to experience that! Both of these wines were great, but showed quite differently. A spot on flavor that Roldophe pointed out in the 06 was caramel with sea salt, crazy. The 07 was painfully young, but has all the components to be great in the future. We finished on a pair of rosės from 10 and 11, delightful and thought provoking. This was and awesome way to finish an amazing day.